For this retouch, I used the healing brush tool. First, make a new layer. Hold Alt and choose a section of "good" texture. Then, find a wrinkle and start to go over it like you're using the paintbrush. When all wrinkles have been covered, adjust the opacity to make it look more natural. Some drawbacks of this method were that the selected area would move as your brush did, making it difficult to make long strokes. It was very nice for different parts of the face.
The spot healing brush tool was used in these edits. You just have to make the size of the tool slightly larger than the blemish and click. It will cover it with the surrounding skin. This tool is very helpful and easy to use, but tricky if you have a lot of complex textures and colors very close to each other.
I used a special selection tool in this edit. First, you select the solid hair, then use the tool to widen it while ignoring the background. It is a very tricky process and can be difficult and confusing to use, but it works very well as you can see by the pictures above.
This tutorial was pretty easy. You just added a screen and lightened the whole picture before darkening it and erasing the darkening in the eyes. It is a very simple process that doesn't take much time, but it doesn't look as nice in every situation as can bee seen by the example on the right.
In this picture, I changed the color of some of the blocks by using the rectangular marquee. I selected the marquee tool in the top left hand corner and outlined the area I wanted to change. Then, I opened a hue and saturation adjustment layer and changed the color of the blocks. It worked very well for the square and rectangular blocks, but as you can see, I was not able to change the triangles or the circle very well. This is one of the drawbacks of the rectangular marquee tool. It can only do rectangles and squares. However, if that is what you are doing, it is a very easy and convenient way to make changes to your images.
The elipse tool is very useful for working with circular shapes and vignettes. Other than that, don't use it for a lot of geometrical shapes or angles because then it looks really bad.
The magic wand tool is very useful when you are working with simple, monochrome backgrounds with a difficult outline. However, if the background is not all the same or a similar color, this is not going to help you that much.
The lasso tool is very useful. It allows you to make selections very quickly and easily. It is very useful when there is a lot of contrast between the subject and background, but difficult when they are similar.
The geometric lasso is a very useful tool for when you have a subject with a lot of angles. It is very difficult however, for any subject with curved edges.
The magnetic lasso tool is very handy and is least complicated when you have a subject that contrasts from its background. It can be a faster way to get curved lines. However, if the background is similar to the subject, it can be a real pain.
The pen took is a very versatile one, but it can be complex and tricky to handle. This will work for just about anything, but in circumstances where it would be easier to use another tool, I would recommend using it because this tool can be hard to use.
Say you're in Photoshop and you want to edit an image. Here's one.
This picture is a little dark, so we want to lighten it up. So, we put the picture into Photoshop and open the levels adjustment tool and move the arrows to make it lighter.
Better, right? Okay, but say I want to change it again. I open up the levels window again and what do I see?
Pretty weird. Why is it like this? When we made the adjustments, it didn't just change the image, it threw away a whole bunch of data! We can't have that, can we? And if you were to keep adjusting it, you would probably get something like this.
Well, this is alright, but it could be better, right? So we try to fix it again.
And again. And you keep trying and trying until it ends up like this
Okay, I don't know about you, but I've never seen blue trees before. As you can probably tell, this picture is ruined. And since you got rid of all of your data, there's no way of getting it back. Just look at the histogram! Where did all of that data go? There's got to be a better way of doing this! Well, you're right. It's called non-destructive editing and I'm going to show you how to do it.
So here's our original image again. Let's see if we can do a better job this time. We are going to open a new adjustment layer to work on instead of just changing the whole image. It should look like this.
So you move around your little arrows and you get a pretty good result.
Pretty great right? And the best part is- Oh my gosh!!! My finger slipped and the whole picture is messed up and now it's ruined! The trees are blue! It looks terrible and now I'm gonna lose my job or die or lose my job then die! What am I going to do !?!?!?
Calm down, it's fine. This is one of the reasons non-destructive editing is so fantastic. Your data won't be lost. You can simply move the arrows back or you can delete the layer so you go back to the original. All the data is still there and you have the freedom to do whatever you need to without having to worry.
My own photo with destructive editing. Notice how the quality gets progressively worse as data is lost.
Non-destructive editing. Notice how even after I close the level adjuster, it does not throw out the data.
Destructive editing does pretty much the same thing as non-destructive editing, but you wouldn't want to you use it. Every time you make an adjustment, with destructive editing, data from the picture is thrown away and can't be retrieved. Also, any changes you make are pretty much permanent. Non-destructive editing is a much safer way to do the same thing. You can make adjustments without the risk of ruining your picture permanently or loosing data. This makes non-destructive editing a much more appealing option.